I see it done all the time, but it seems the only way I can get an opaque white on a dark shirt is to print white several times and by then the ink gets thick. I've experimented with a 155 mesh and I can get a fairly opaque white without flashing in between, but even with one pass the ink gets thick. I've also experimented with higher mesh counts -- 230-255 and print white with a flash in between. Again, it does get opaque -- but it still seems thick. How can I get a consistent white to underbase with?
Right now I'm using Eli's White from One-Stroke which seems to have the least thick consistency I've come across so far -- I've also tried the Fast Flash series.
Suggestions?
Thin, Opaque Whites on Dark Shirts
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the screenprinters eternal question...
I get pretty good results through a 230 mesh with a thinned out ink and print/flash/print
Can still feel it but not the kevlar vest feel
also one pass with a tiny (1or 2 %) of puff aqdditive in the white can give a good result.
Basically for a blinding white there must be a reasonable amount of ink on the shirt.
Through trial and error you can reach the point where the scales sit ata point that satisfy the twin cravings for bright bright white and a silky hand
I get pretty good results through a 230 mesh with a thinned out ink and print/flash/print
Can still feel it but not the kevlar vest feel
also one pass with a tiny (1or 2 %) of puff aqdditive in the white can give a good result.
Basically for a blinding white there must be a reasonable amount of ink on the shirt.
Through trial and error you can reach the point where the scales sit ata point that satisfy the twin cravings for bright bright white and a silky hand
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Re: Thin, Opaque Whites on Dark Shirts
I highly recommend using a discharge white. I can get a really high opaque white with just one pass using a 160 mesh screen and is extremely soft to the touch. All of our customers love it the most.
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Re: Thin, Opaque Whites on Dark Shirts
In the White game you have to give and take a bit, if you want really opaque with out discharge you will have to sacrifice feel. I agree with the 230 mesh, I hate the 48 micron mesh, but love the 40. The 40 has more open area than the 48 but are weaker and break easier. Discharge is the best way to get a thin super opaque white, but it comes with its own challenges as well. Now you are dealing with water, and water based emoltion. Printing plastisol on top of water base can be tricky, you have to make sure that the water is 100% gone after the dryer or your prints will wash off. Sometimes you have to run the shirts through the dryer multiple times. I have used the one stroke, and it is a nice ink, but my favorite by far has always been the Wilflex Bright Tiger, it does not climb up the squeegee is thin, and has a great white. I have tried many inks for the past 12 years and I always come back to the Bright Tiger.