Using spray paint to set the stencil
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Using spray paint to set the stencil
I'm new to screenprinting, and want to just do a few t-shirts at the moment, but I resent the fact that the emulsion alone is going to set me back over £30! I saw a few people using spray paints onto the fabric, but would rather use standard inks. What would happen if I put a paper template on the screen, then spray painted over it? When I removed the paper, would that leave a useable stencil on the screen do we think?
thanks for advice
thanks for advice
Interesting idea. Of course you would never be able to reuse the screen for another design. I am sure many (if not all) of the screen printers on this forum would detest the idea. I would think it would depend on the paint that you used, as well as the screen count. Screening fabric is sold in different stitch counts, which means that the silk fabric is woven into squares. Each of those squares represents a count. If you have a 155 count screening fabric, that would mean you have 155 tiny little squares within an inch. I am also quite new to this game, but that is my understanding. The emulsion is thick enough to cover those squares and then hardened by UV light so that no ink can get through those squares. The problem with spray paints is that it is a very thin, liquidy type of application. It would just run through the squares. Unless you did many coats, or found a thicker type of paint.
One other thing that may be an issue is edge clarity. If your design contains any fine lines or any detail at all, I am sure that a construction paper type stencil would not be sufficient enough to give you the fine line detail you are looking for.
Like I said. I am new to this stuff myself, but those are just a few of the issues I think you will run into. I would just break down and purchase the emulsion. That little bucket of wonder mix will go a long way.
Hellbound
One other thing that may be an issue is edge clarity. If your design contains any fine lines or any detail at all, I am sure that a construction paper type stencil would not be sufficient enough to give you the fine line detail you are looking for.
Like I said. I am new to this stuff myself, but those are just a few of the issues I think you will run into. I would just break down and purchase the emulsion. That little bucket of wonder mix will go a long way.
Hellbound
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Hey oh.....
You almost got it right. At the turn of the last century early "silk screen" printers were using a process called the "Touche & Glue" method of making stencils. This process involved the use of cutting paper positive cutouts of the image and applying it to the mesh using glue. The paper area was removed leaving the glue in place in the mesh resulting in a printable image. Head down to your local library or do an on-line search for information on the method. The process was used mainly for very short runs of less than 25 impressions, and did not hold fine detail, but it worked!
Alternatively, call Autotype in Wantage, OXON (02357 66251) and try to get a small 1 litre sample of one of their photo emulsions or, better yet, a sample of Autocut, their water adhered hand cut stencil film (for solvent inks) or Solvent Green, their solvent adhered hand cut stencil film (for water base inks). They have 24" x 40" samples of the films available.
Either way, it'll save you a few quid and will accomplish your objective!
Good Luck
X
You almost got it right. At the turn of the last century early "silk screen" printers were using a process called the "Touche & Glue" method of making stencils. This process involved the use of cutting paper positive cutouts of the image and applying it to the mesh using glue. The paper area was removed leaving the glue in place in the mesh resulting in a printable image. Head down to your local library or do an on-line search for information on the method. The process was used mainly for very short runs of less than 25 impressions, and did not hold fine detail, but it worked!
Alternatively, call Autotype in Wantage, OXON (02357 66251) and try to get a small 1 litre sample of one of their photo emulsions or, better yet, a sample of Autocut, their water adhered hand cut stencil film (for solvent inks) or Solvent Green, their solvent adhered hand cut stencil film (for water base inks). They have 24" x 40" samples of the films available.
Either way, it'll save you a few quid and will accomplish your objective!
Good Luck
X
No go. Five phone calls later and they first reccomended and then quoted £40 for 1l of emulsion, £10 for black ink and £70 for white ink suitable for black fabric. All water based. They had no samples (else they'd have given me them). All in all, not worth it considering I'm wanting to do about 10-15 t-shirts and hoodies to start with.
I'm just trying to raise some money for charities
I'm just trying to raise some money for charities
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Sorry about the phone number, it's been a few years since I called there! (Can't believe they were so anal!) (That partly explains the "X")
There's 2 types of hand cut film. Both are cut using an X-Acto knife in the shape that you want to print (the positive). Peel away the no print area. One film is adhered to the mesh using water, and is designed for solvent base inks. The other is adhered to the mesh with solvent, and is designed for using water base inks. The water adhering film is called "Autocut" the solvent adhered film is called "Solvent Green". In the USA (possibly in the UK too) Ulano markets similar products called Ulanocut Amber and Ulanocut Green for the same application. They are easy to use and are fairly inexpensive.
If still too much, research the Touche & Glue method I described. It was a process used extensively in the early 1900's and is still used today by many fine art printers.
Otherwise - you could always drop a few bob to have a screen printing company shoot your screens.
Either way - Best of Luck!
X
There's 2 types of hand cut film. Both are cut using an X-Acto knife in the shape that you want to print (the positive). Peel away the no print area. One film is adhered to the mesh using water, and is designed for solvent base inks. The other is adhered to the mesh with solvent, and is designed for using water base inks. The water adhering film is called "Autocut" the solvent adhered film is called "Solvent Green". In the USA (possibly in the UK too) Ulano markets similar products called Ulanocut Amber and Ulanocut Green for the same application. They are easy to use and are fairly inexpensive.
If still too much, research the Touche & Glue method I described. It was a process used extensively in the early 1900's and is still used today by many fine art printers.
Otherwise - you could always drop a few bob to have a screen printing company shoot your screens.
Either way - Best of Luck!
X
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Now that's funny considering people who own Macs have more money to buy the computer with!!! LOLohowson wrote:I normally make a point of never taking financial advice from anyone with a mac, but in this case I may make an exception and bite the bullet. Are there any preferred suppliers within the UK, or should I wait for the guy from ebay to get back to me?
I'm still using my same PC what I bought 11 years ago. I've just upgraded the ram. and the hard drive. and the case. and the motherboard. and the cpu. and the cooler. and the sound. and the graphics. and the interweb connection. and the optical drive. and the monitors. and the speakers.
Name me a mac user that can say that then!
Name me a mac user that can say that then!
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What OS are your running? The thing about Macs is, they do run and run and run, but the question becomes why would you want to run them that long? When you are constantly buying new software that requires more everything in your system, you need to update your system. I run Macs that are 4 and 5 years old all the time with no hiccups running the latest OS. I have Macs that are well over 11 years old running the older system and it runs fine. I let my kids play with that one!ohowson wrote:I'm still using my same PC what I bought 11 years ago. I've just upgraded the ram. and the hard drive. and the case. and the motherboard. and the cpu. and the cooler. and the sound. and the graphics. and the interweb connection. and the optical drive. and the monitors. and the speakers.
Name me a mac user that can say that then!
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So basically, you replaced everything that costs money but you kept the same what??ohowson wrote:I I've just upgraded the ram. and the hard drive. and the case. and the motherboard. and the cpu. and the cooler. and the sound. and the graphics. and the interweb connection. and the optical drive. and the monitors. and the speakers.
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