angle & frequency VS meshcount

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homer
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angle & frequency VS meshcount

Post by homer »

Is there some sort of a standard or rule of thumb when it comes to printing halftones. So as to avoid morray problems. That is, is there a correct angle & frequency for each different mesh count?????
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Post by tsiartguy »

Try this: (its a basic formula but it'll help you get started)

mesh count/4= frequency
As for an angle use 22.5° for one color, each color after increase by 30°

Hopes this helps
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Post by ROADSIDE »

halftones are fine... I use them daily.

45 is a good standard angle

as far as DPI it depends on the color of the shirt and the image itself

33 dpi is good for dark shirts... gives you a nice size dot

53 dpi is what I run on almost everything

83 dpi+ is what I run my process stuff at

You will prolly get a million different opinions on this question. but the best answer is EXPERIMENT
.... I can give you my opinion but I can't tell you if it's right or not.
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Post by landofmoab »

I use 55-60 dpi for my process jobs. For just halftones I use as low as I can get away with, but then I like the big dots - they just look bolder.
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angles, frequency and mesh

Post by strackmatt »

Everything depends on what type of art / file you are printing.

For 4 color process (CMYK) I choose this (NOTE THE PRINT ORDER):

Yellow FREQUENCY: 85 ANGLE: 25
Magenta FREQUENCY: 85 ANGLE: 45
Cyan FREQUENCY: 85 ANGLE: 75
Black FREQUENCY: 85 ANGLE: 75

All Spots:

FREQUENCY: 85 ANGLE: 22.5

For issues concerning moire:

I've never had half tone moire issues with Vector based art, I use 230 mesh for Spots and 110 for unberbases. I have experienced banding with gradients used in vector based art. There's a lot less control.

If you are talking about continuos tones, such as photographic art for spot process or 4 color process (like PhotoShop files or "Raster images"), then consider experimenting with the smallest dot you can hold. Usually most shops work with 10 - 8 % being the smallest dot, thus eliminating moire. I always mesh these types of jobs on 355 or 230.

As always if your films are registered nice and neat you can avoid moire that way too.
Thanks,
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mesh and screen angle

Post by Nate »

Rule of thumb: mesh divided by 4 = dot frequency minumum

SIngle color halftones or white dominant halftones on darks -- 45 degrees.

I've done 30 degrees/color difference but I'm into messing with the other rccomendations here too.

Experiment if you can! The above has worked for live jobs for me.
"Don't just eat and hamburger -- eat the HELL out of a hamburger!" -- JR "Bob" Dobbs
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Post by DHolley »

The rule of thumb is five times your frequency for your mesh count.

You want to stay away from 0 and 90 degree angles on single color or process.

7.5 - Y
22.5 - C
37.5 - K
82.5 - M
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What about mesh count?

Post by Nate »

Can you lower the mesh with that formula?

With the my formula I get a more' using a 230 mesh and a 53 lpi halftone frequency. Had that hard lesson tonight. I'd usually use 260 or 305 for 53 tho.
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Post by nils »

Dot shape is very important too.
HeavyEllipse produces much less moiree than ellipse.

I print usually 100lpi CMYK with 180 threads/cm mesh(industrial DVD-label printing).
Only halftones from 0 - 5 % are lost but no moiree.
It is possible to print even higher lpi with HeavyEllipse.
With 150 lpi 0 - 28% halftones will be lost but still no moiree.
nils
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