angle & frequency VS meshcount
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angle & frequency VS meshcount
Is there some sort of a standard or rule of thumb when it comes to printing halftones. So as to avoid morray problems. That is, is there a correct angle & frequency for each different mesh count?????
halftones are fine... I use them daily.
45 is a good standard angle
as far as DPI it depends on the color of the shirt and the image itself
33 dpi is good for dark shirts... gives you a nice size dot
53 dpi is what I run on almost everything
83 dpi+ is what I run my process stuff at
You will prolly get a million different opinions on this question. but the best answer is EXPERIMENT
45 is a good standard angle
as far as DPI it depends on the color of the shirt and the image itself
33 dpi is good for dark shirts... gives you a nice size dot
53 dpi is what I run on almost everything
83 dpi+ is what I run my process stuff at
You will prolly get a million different opinions on this question. but the best answer is EXPERIMENT
.... I can give you my opinion but I can't tell you if it's right or not.
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angles, frequency and mesh
Everything depends on what type of art / file you are printing.
For 4 color process (CMYK) I choose this (NOTE THE PRINT ORDER):
Yellow FREQUENCY: 85 ANGLE: 25
Magenta FREQUENCY: 85 ANGLE: 45
Cyan FREQUENCY: 85 ANGLE: 75
Black FREQUENCY: 85 ANGLE: 75
All Spots:
FREQUENCY: 85 ANGLE: 22.5
For issues concerning moire:
I've never had half tone moire issues with Vector based art, I use 230 mesh for Spots and 110 for unberbases. I have experienced banding with gradients used in vector based art. There's a lot less control.
If you are talking about continuos tones, such as photographic art for spot process or 4 color process (like PhotoShop files or "Raster images"), then consider experimenting with the smallest dot you can hold. Usually most shops work with 10 - 8 % being the smallest dot, thus eliminating moire. I always mesh these types of jobs on 355 or 230.
As always if your films are registered nice and neat you can avoid moire that way too.
For 4 color process (CMYK) I choose this (NOTE THE PRINT ORDER):
Yellow FREQUENCY: 85 ANGLE: 25
Magenta FREQUENCY: 85 ANGLE: 45
Cyan FREQUENCY: 85 ANGLE: 75
Black FREQUENCY: 85 ANGLE: 75
All Spots:
FREQUENCY: 85 ANGLE: 22.5
For issues concerning moire:
I've never had half tone moire issues with Vector based art, I use 230 mesh for Spots and 110 for unberbases. I have experienced banding with gradients used in vector based art. There's a lot less control.
If you are talking about continuos tones, such as photographic art for spot process or 4 color process (like PhotoShop files or "Raster images"), then consider experimenting with the smallest dot you can hold. Usually most shops work with 10 - 8 % being the smallest dot, thus eliminating moire. I always mesh these types of jobs on 355 or 230.
As always if your films are registered nice and neat you can avoid moire that way too.
Thanks,
Matt
Matt
mesh and screen angle
Rule of thumb: mesh divided by 4 = dot frequency minumum
SIngle color halftones or white dominant halftones on darks -- 45 degrees.
I've done 30 degrees/color difference but I'm into messing with the other rccomendations here too.
Experiment if you can! The above has worked for live jobs for me.
SIngle color halftones or white dominant halftones on darks -- 45 degrees.
I've done 30 degrees/color difference but I'm into messing with the other rccomendations here too.
Experiment if you can! The above has worked for live jobs for me.
"Don't just eat and hamburger -- eat the HELL out of a hamburger!" -- JR "Bob" Dobbs
What about mesh count?
Can you lower the mesh with that formula?
With the my formula I get a more' using a 230 mesh and a 53 lpi halftone frequency. Had that hard lesson tonight. I'd usually use 260 or 305 for 53 tho.
With the my formula I get a more' using a 230 mesh and a 53 lpi halftone frequency. Had that hard lesson tonight. I'd usually use 260 or 305 for 53 tho.
"Don't just eat and hamburger -- eat the HELL out of a hamburger!" -- JR "Bob" Dobbs
Dot shape is very important too.
HeavyEllipse produces much less moiree than ellipse.
I print usually 100lpi CMYK with 180 threads/cm mesh(industrial DVD-label printing).
Only halftones from 0 - 5 % are lost but no moiree.
It is possible to print even higher lpi with HeavyEllipse.
With 150 lpi 0 - 28% halftones will be lost but still no moiree.
HeavyEllipse produces much less moiree than ellipse.
I print usually 100lpi CMYK with 180 threads/cm mesh(industrial DVD-label printing).
Only halftones from 0 - 5 % are lost but no moiree.
It is possible to print even higher lpi with HeavyEllipse.
With 150 lpi 0 - 28% halftones will be lost but still no moiree.
nils
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