Capillary films vs Emulsion

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BoliMan
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Capillary films vs Emulsion

Post by BoliMan »

Pls give me pros and cons on using Capillary film vs Emulsion. 1. Quality of images, prints, 2. durability 3. ease of making screens with capfilm vs emulsion. 4. life cycle of screens, etc. 5. What type of user would benefit from cap film and who would not.

Also, dye coated mesh. I was told it is superior for detailed crisp images because it allows a clearer crisper image to be burned. Worth the additional cost? Again, who would be the kind of user that would benefit most from this?

We want to print finely detailed high res multi layered images on glass.

I appreciate the input you guys have given on my questions!
jklaflin
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Post by jklaflin »

I have not used capillary film, but I have had very good success with fine detail using emulsion. I did a job recently that had a fish on it. Some of the detailed dots in the fish were honestly the same size as a period in a size 10 font. I used a 230 mesh and they came out perfect.
My recommendation is to try both (if you can afford to) and see what works best for you. I would suggest trying to become an "expert" using one of them, though, instead of only being kinda good at both.
nils
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pros and cons

Post by nils »

I do 100 lpi process color and single color printing to cd-s/dvd-s.
My screen preparation room is very-very small.
I use cappilary film mostly because I do not have space for coating.
I use cappilary film in sheets because I have no room and time for cutting.
I use cappilary film in sheets because I can avoid dust like that.

Quality of Kiwo capillary film is not consistent. Sometimes there are weaves and peaces of unknown something.
Autotype Macdermid is very good.
Ulano is very good.
nils
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Post by X_Autotype_#1 »

1. Printed image quality (vs. imaged stencil quality) is superior with capillary films due to the fact that the film is coated onto a polyester carrier. The PET carrier enables the print surface of the stencil surface to dry in a much more flat state than what you can achieve with a direct coating. When you coat direct onto a mesh, as the emulsion dries the stencil printing surface takes on the contour of the weave in the mesh, leaving high spots and low spots. With capillary film, you remove the PET and a smooth, flat printing surface remains. This flat surface provides an "ink damn" on the edge of the stencil when printed, and keeps the ink contained within the image area. When you print through an emulsion stencil, you can actually see where the ink will squeeze out around the open stencil area toward a contact spot on the mesh, causing a distorted image. This is true with most any mesh count, and is the primary reason that ultra high resolution printed images are best when using a film, capillary, indirect film, or direct/indirect stencil system. This distortion in the image is best seen under strong magnification such as a 25x or 50x microscope.

Many emulsion manufacturers try to compensate for the "shrinkage" of the solids around the mesh by increasing the solids content of the emulsion, or recommending a "wet on dry" multiple coating technique, but the true flatness of the stencil surface is difficult at best to achieve with a direct emulsion, vs a film product.

2. In terms of durability, technically the direct emulsion should be more durable than a standard applied capillary film, provided that the emulsion is coated onto both sides of the mesh. Direct emulsions fully encapsulate the fabric when correctly coated and exposed, thus should be capable of higher print runs under similar conditions to a film that is applied to only the print side of the mesh.

Having said that, capillary films are called capillary films, because during the mounting process, the emulsion is softened by the water used and the emulsion is drawn up between the openings in the mesh by capillary action. Although the emulsion does not fully encapsulate the fabric, it is embedded further into the mesh than an indirect film would be.

Under most conditions, you would have a hard time proving one system was more durable than the other under the same conditions.

3. From a consistency standpoint (remember screen printing is all about control of the variables), a film stencil system is the only way to ensure consistency in the stencil with nearly guaranteed repeatability. Capillary films are sold in various thicknesses to ensure consistency in the stencil thickness. When you adhere a 35 micron capillary film to a 200 tpi mesh, your stencil thickness will be nearly exactly the same thickness on every screen. Stencil thickness is extremely important in controling color saturation and hue shifts in halftone printing, as well as controling accuracy of ink laydown in UV ink printing.

4. Both systems should be easy to reclaim using the correct ink wash and stencil reclaiming techniques recommended by the manufacturer.

5. Capillary film, or other stencil film system would benefit most all printing applications. Each film system has specific benefits and drawbacks, but in most cases, will provide a superior printed image under similar conditions to direct emulsion. During the early to mid 1980's, most screen printing companies around the world were using a film (capillary or indirect) for their stencil imaging. Emulsions began to take hold in the market in the late 80's due to sensitizer improvements, providing better image quality and other features.

You should explore the benefits of using an indirect film for your glass printing application also. Although the durability of an indirect film is not as high as either a direct emulsion or capillary film, there are indirect films that will allow you to go from exposure to printing within 15 minutes! and still provide controlled ink deposit, high resolution and definition images (2 mil lines, 2 mil spaces with some films), and consistency in stencil from screen to screen.

Good Luck!
pitt59
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emulsion

Post by pitt59 »

ive used both capillary film and liquid emulsion, I now use only capillary film. I have no problems with stencil quality and it is way way cheaper. one gallon cost about fifty bucks and will last about 75-100 screens. I think the sheets may be a little quicker but in the end liquid emulsions were the way to go for me.
Carlos Aguilar
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