Bleeding 18x24 Coroplast Signs

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seang
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Bleeding 18x24 Coroplast Signs

Post by seang »

I was told we needed a 31x37 Screen to bleed 18x24 signs...so we have room for ink.
Has anyone done this? Were bleeding 24" with a long 3" x24" bar to bleed L to R.
(outside size of screen frame...frame is extra 3" each way...sure this is standard... so screen size is itself is 28x34)

Do you make bar oversized like 24.25" and catch the extra ink?
Or do you just line up to hit as close as possible? Thinking option 2...line it up to hit best close as possible.

Our only other thought was to get oversized coroplast and trim...but for 2500 signs....no way!

Help!!!
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d fleming
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Re: Bleeding 18x24 Coroplast Signs

Post by d fleming »

Bleeds are done by cutting away excess after printing. That's why they cost more. The most cost effective way if you cannot print 4'x8' sheets is to print inside the edge of precut 18x24 and the trim when done printing to bleed.
shiney
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Re: Bleeding 18x24 Coroplast Signs

Post by shiney »

I have a question for you regarding coroplast signs. can you tell me your drying procedure and possibly ink type for these.
I've been using a nazdar corogloss ink which works great and air dries quickly but i'm needing something that will flash dry with heat.
i dont have the space to rack 100's of signs at a time. any advice would be awesome!
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d fleming
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Re: Bleeding 18x24 Coroplast Signs

Post by d fleming »

Ah the old flat stock printers conundrum...no space!!
I use corogloss as well. I have one small rack for 50 and larger racks that hold 600 each (18x24). You could go UV but that is a large expense to start considering the dryer required.
My footprint for enough racks to do 1000 18x24 is actually fairly small using the right size racks. You can usually stack the first rack after you fill the second. Stack them standing up to be sure they don't stick together (blocking) right off the bat. This time of year you should be able to use fast thinner and no retarder to aid in drying time. A fan running cool air across the racks will quicken it up as well. Moving air gets the evaporating solvent out of the way so the print dries quicker. You run the danger of damaging the coro using heat to cure.
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