PLEASE HELP ! Printing Numbers on 100% polyester jerseys

LASER2 · Post by **LASER2** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 11:27 pm

I am attempting to efficiently print 2 color numbers on dark 100% polyester jerseys. I have a Lawson number system (master frame and individual screens for digits). It is useful but still mighty slow. I have been printing each digit, flashing, printing again, flashing, printing outline, flashing, printing and placing in dryer. Is there a better way? I've used the new Poly One series one inks, but still I have to hit each color twice. I am hoping for a print-flash-print-dryer solution. I'm sure ink selection is vital. I will be doing these quite often if I can make this easier. I'm hoping someone can lend some help. Thanks!

DTGPrinting · Post by **DTGPrinting** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 10:23 am

That sounds about right. I think the only other option is to order screen printed transfers, unless you invest in another piece of equipment.

We carry Vastex Products as well and they do have a numbering system that is probably faster than the setup you have.

If you have a rotating station, then you should be able to print, rotate under the flash while you are printing another number. If not, then that's what is slowing you down.

Here is the Vastex Version of a numbering press. Even with the setup you can see it would be quicker.

Check it out here:

http://vastex.com/index2.html?number_demo.htm

LASER2 · Post by **LASER2** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 9:22 pm

How much is something like this with a 2 color 8 inch setup? Looks pretty cool. Any chance one will be at ISS in Atlanta in Sept? Thanks

Maxie · Post by **Maxie** » Sat Aug 26, 2006 4:25 am

I print a fair amount of numbers using a small vacuum base, I print transfers.
I have a screen for each number, 2 per page and I print them on paper that I buy from a company that supplies products for baking.
We get a good result and it's much easier than trying to line up numbers on the press.
Works well with polyester and cotton and we use the same transfers for hats.

LASER2 · Post by **LASER2** » Sat Aug 26, 2006 7:33 am

Maxie,
That sounds very interesting. I'd like to know more about that. Do you print 2 color numbers using the same process? I have a few manufacturing accounts that send me stuff every week. I do a bunch of tackle twill for them, but they need some of it screened as well. The way we are numbering is a bottleneck. Printing up number sheets during downtime and saving up maybe a good solution. Please reply or send me a PM.

Maxie · Post by **Maxie** » Sat Aug 26, 2006 9:48 am

We normally do one color numbers, you can do two but you'll need to buy good quality transfer paper. You need to pre heat and pre shrink it before printing two colors.
The advantage of the baking paper (I think it has a silicone coating) is that it is similar to tracing paper and see through, so you can see where the number is when you put two down one next to the other.
You might be able to use the tracing paper for two colors but you'll have to do tests to determine the amount of shrinkage because you have to dry the first color before you print the second.
I do exactly what you mentioned, I print the numbers when I have time and store them. If you have difficult materials you can buy a powder glue from Union and just lay the transfer in a tray of glue to coat it.
I usually only do this for hats.
By the way all the plastisols I normally use work with transfers. You must not over cure. I just run them through the oven very fast. On a low temperature. They must be dry to the touch so they don't stick together.

LASER2 · Post by **LASER2** » Sat Aug 26, 2006 2:47 pm

So, all you do is print numbers (in mirror) onto baking sheet paper and run it through the dryer at like 250? degrees and store them? Are you using regular plastisols like Wilflex? Are you then applying them by heat press onto the garment? Sounds pretty cool. How big are the sheets of paper?

Maxie · Post by **Maxie** » Sat Aug 26, 2006 4:23 pm

Yes, you must print reversed. I would make tests to make sure the transfers adhere to the garment and wash well. Important not to overcure, if you cure in the initial drying they won't adhere well to the garment.
I cut he sheets to A4 (Legal). I built a vacuum base. Bolt 2 sheets of wood to a frame, drill small holes in the top one and attach a vacuum cleaner to the bottom. It's very simple and works well.
I use all the plastisols I normally use. Mainly Wilflex and Union.

LASER2 · Post by **LASER2** » Sun Aug 27, 2006 10:45 am

excellent advice. I appreciate the tip and will definately give it a try. Thanks!

itesdi · Post by **itesdi** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 12:39 am

PLEASE CHECK THIS VIDEO IN THIS YOU TUBE LINK:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMa-8EA1cmc

MAYBE IT HELP YOU

Post by **ROADSIDE** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:29 am

Honestly...IMO Screen printing numbers is the slowest way to do it.

Much much faster doing cut vinyl letters .... 2,3,4 colors are not a problem.
If you dont have a cutter then order some pre spaced #s from stahls.

If you add up the time and material for both processes you will see that VINYL is CHEAPER CLEANER FASTER.

just my thoughts.

Post by **yaleteamsandtees** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:03 am

I couldn't agree more!

The only time I would direct print number again
is if it's a large league.

At that it would take 20 teams or more to make it worthwhile.

I already have the screens with 6" on one end and 8"
on the other for 35 numbers.