Using 235 mesh, having trouble getting ink through design.

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Tyner Graphics
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Using 235 mesh, having trouble getting ink through design.

Post by Tyner Graphics »

Hi,

I have a brand spanking new press and I know just enough to get me into trouble. :lol: Here is my question / problem. I am using a 235 mesh screen with 1 coat of emulsion and the washout is great. Then I set it up on the press and have a difficult time getting ink through the screen. I've checked my off -contact and it is good, but I am having to pull my color like 4 times just to get good coverage. I have tried varying the angles that I hold the squeegee and get the best results holding it at like a 45 degree angle but I am still having to pull 4 times. Am I doing something wrong here or am I supposed to be pulling it 4 times? With 100's of shirts to do this gets tiring just having this problem with one color. This was with my black ink that is thin. I was using a much thicker ink for my 2nd color and 110 mesh and had no problem with it. I just needed the finer detail on my black. Now I am looking at doing several 5 and 6 color jobs in the next few weeks and need to get this hammered out. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Mandy
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d fleming
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Post by d fleming »

Try dropping mesh count. I use 235 for flatstock printing. Much thinner inks.
Tyner Graphics
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Post by Tyner Graphics »

The problem is that I was doing some fine line work and needed that mesh count to hold the design. My ink was the thinnest that I have. So how would you do really fine line work and type if not use 235 or higher mesh count? Not sure what flatstock printing is, sorry.
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Post by d fleming »

Flat stock for me is mostly coroplast or sticker stock. Not textile, although I do have a 6/4 manual textile press as well for t-shirts. 125 usually holds pretty fine but I guess you can go somewhat higher to get really sharp detail. Not getting ink through on first stroke could be scumming to some degree, maybe take a closer look at screen to be sure mesh is open all the way. SOmetimes a light scum is hard to detect until you go to print. Black ink through a 125 or a little finer should hold pretty decent detail. What is your light source on exposure? If exposure is too long you could have some undercutting messing you up for really fine detail instead of the mesh.
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Post by ROADSIDE »

I agree with D....

235 is more then likely OVERKILL for T-shirts... especially if you are using a 110 for another color.

110, 125, 175 are my everyday mesh counts and I pull very good detail.

What LPI of the film? if you are using an LPI that is to high you dots are going to be REAL SMALL.

33 LPI is a nice size dot for the most part. (15% dot gain)
53 LPI is nice for CMYK on textiles.

You should post the design so we can see what you are doing... It may help.
.... I can give you my opinion but I can't tell you if it's right or not.
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Post by Tyner Graphics »

My exposure unit is an 8 bulb unit with a compression lid that outputs 240 watts of uv blacklight.

What I was trying to get was a really small type line on a sponsor logo. My husband, who does all our artwork, uses a 55 lpi dot size I think.

So you guys all use 175 or so for multiple color jobs with half tones?

The next job that is worrying me is a six color job that will mix colors and make a few more by mixing them. My husband has been in the business as an artist for the last 15 years, but I am new to all this. He has seen lots of jobs printed on automaticl presses and helped with all the percentages of color and what not, but he has never actually printed a shirt. So now that we are expanding our home business with this new 6 color manual, I am nominated to be our printer. I think I have the procedure down pretty well as I have been using a 1 color press for over a year now with great results. I don't even want to get into process printing yet, just spot color.

So, with this 6 color job I was planning on using a 110 for my white underbase, and 235 for all my colors. I don't have anything in between currently, but I can always buy some more. What do you guys think?
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Post by ROADSIDE »

My setup for printing on darks a bit different because I run an AUTO but here goes.

Station #1 White Ink (175 mesh) Double Stroke
Station #2 Flash Cure @ 875 for 8-10 seconds (my shop is really cold this time of year)
Station #3 K (process color ink black) 125 to 175 with a 45LPI dot
Station #4 Y (process color ink yellow) 125 to 175 with a 45LPI dot
Station #5 M (process color ink magenta) 125 to 175 with a 45LPI dot
Station #6 C (process color ink cyan) 125 to 175 with a 45LPI dot

This gets me really close to photo realistic. You can got higher on your LPI but since you are somewhat new its only going to make the process harder.

Are you using Plastisol?

Also you may be having pressure issues... you are on a manual and if you are not that strong you may have to pull a few times.
.... I can give you my opinion but I can't tell you if it's right or not.
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